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Know your hair

How to tell real virgin human hair from fake or processed hair: 7 tests you can do in the shop

12 September 2026 · 2 min read · English · Kiswahili summary below
How to tell real virgin human hair from fake or processed hair: 7 tests you can do in the shop

Short answer: real virgin hair has an intact cuticle, no coating and no plastic. You can prove all three in a shop in five minutes: rub a strand both ways, wet it, look at the ends under light, and, if the seller allows, burn a single strand. Below are the seven tests Malvié stylists use when clients bring in hair bought elsewhere.

1. The cuticle test

Hold one strand and slide it between thumb and finger from root to tip, then from tip to root. Virgin hair feels smooth downward and faintly rough upward because the cuticle scales all point the same way. If both directions feel identical and glassy, the cuticle has been stripped with acid: the hair is processed and will tangle when the coating washes out.

2. The slip test

Run your whole hand through the bundle. Virgin hair feels soft but slightly dry and "real". A bundle that feels unusually slippery, almost wet, is coated in silicone to hide processing. That silk feeling will last two or three washes.

3. The water test

Wet a section. Virgin wavy or curly hair springs back into its own pattern; virgin straight hair stays smooth. Processed hair goes limp and stringy and often frizzes as it dries. Synthetic fibre does not absorb water at all.

4. The ends and the roots

Look at the bundle under daylight. In a Double drawn virgin bundle most strands reach the full length and the ends look thick. A bundle that tapers to a thin wisp has short hair mixed in. Look at the weft too: the roots should all lie in the same direction. Mixed-direction hair (called non-Remy) is the number one cause of matting.

5. The burn test

Cut a single strand and burn it away from the bundle. Human hair burns slowly, curls up into a fine ash and smells of burnt feathers. Synthetic fibre melts into a hard bead and smells of plastic. Many "human hair" blends in Kariakoo will give you both smells from the same bundle.

6. The bleach question

Ask the seller: "Can this be bleached to #613?" Virgin hair can. If the answer is "no, it will damage the hair" or "only up to #27", the hair has already been chemically processed, whatever the label says.

7. The video of the exact piece

When buying online, ask for a video of the exact bundle or wig you will receive, filmed that day, with your name said out loud. Malvié films every order before it ships for exactly this reason. A vendor who only sends catalogue clips is selling a photo, not a piece.

What the labels mean

LabelWhat it usually means
Raw / virginUnprocessed, cuticle intact. Can be bleached. The only real premium tier.
RemyRoots aligned. Good, but may still be processed and coated.
Brazilian / Peruvian / MalaysianMarketing names. Usually processed Chinese or Indian hair.
Single donorOne person's hair per bundle, uniform texture. Malvié standard.
Human hair blendMixed with synthetic fibre. Fails the burn test.

Kwa ufupi · Jinsi ya kutambua human hair halisi

Vipimo saba unavyoweza kufanya dukani: (1) sugua uzi juu na chini, nywele za asili ni laini kwenda chini na kidogo kali kwenda juu; (2) pitisha mkono, zikiteleza sana ni silicone; (3) lowesha, nywele za asili zinarudi kwenye umbo lake; (4) angalia ncha na mizizi; (5) choma uzi mmoja, nywele halisi zinanuka kama manyoya, synthetic inanuka plastiki; (6) uliza kama zinaweza ku-bleach hadi #613; (7) omba video ya kipande halisi. Majina "Brazilian" na "Peruvian" ni ya biashara tu.

Nywele zangu mpya zinachanganyika baada ya kuosha mara mbili, kwa nini? Silicone imetoka na cuticle iliyoharibiwa imebaki. Ni dalili ya nywele zilizochakatwa.

Malvié ni virgin? Ndiyo, nywele za asili za Vietnam kutoka kwa mtu mmoja, hazijachakatwa.

Questions clients ask

What does real human hair smell like when burned?

Burnt feathers or burnt hair, with a soft ash. Synthetic fibre smells of plastic and leaves a hard melted bead.

Can processed hair be bleached?

Rarely, and never cleanly. Hair that has been acid-washed and coated breaks when bleached. Virgin Vietnamese hair lifts to #613 in one session.

Why does my new hair tangle after two washes?

The silicone coating that made it feel silky has washed out, exposing a stripped or mixed-direction cuticle. This is the signature of processed non-Remy hair.

Is Malvié hair Remy or virgin?

Both: single-donor virgin Vietnamese hair with aligned cuticles, unprocessed, Double drawn as standard.

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In-stock pieces ship from the Dar es Salaam showroom the same day; made-to-order pieces take 3–4 working days in Việt Nam plus 5–7 days air freight (7–10 days door to door), and every one is filmed before it ships. Showroom: Regent Street, Zimarudi St.

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